HOW TO SPEND ONE DAY IN SOFIA, BULGARIA’S QUIRKY CAPITAL

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The Central Balkan, part of the larger Balkan Peninsula, counts endless wonderful hiking opportunities, the Botev Peak being only one of many. Here nature is preserved in the best of ways, embracing a wealth of fauna and flora. As each season offers a unique quality autumn is my all-time favourite, accomodating much less tourists and indulging the curious adventurer with areas lighting up in spectacular tones of ruby-red and golden-yellow.

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The beginning of this hike is accessed through the town of Kalofer, a small village at the foot of the mountain range displaying incredible monuments of nature. Starting from a grassy meadow, often grazed by flocks of sheep, the path climbs in elevation between gigantic rock columns.

While several muddy dirt roads intersect on either side, in the end they all merge in one common track. Hereafter the thicket of autumnal beech forest is traded for a dry hay-landscape overgrown with low woodland.

Continue following the well-trodded path, you’ll be reaching a brilliantly placed bench with stunning views over the forested valley, with your last challenge of the day in the background. Guiding you through a marvelous carpet of fallen leaves, over a pristine mountain river, and between mossy rocks, the sturdy path turns into a steep twisting ascent until the river is left far below.

Arriving at the Ray Mountain Lodge shortly afterwards, you still have enough time to climb a little bit further and admire the Raisko Praskalo Waterfall (also called Heavenly Spray). Not only is it one of the highest waterfalls in Bulgaria, with an impressive fall height of 125 metres, it is also one of the most stunning thundering waterfalls in the whole Balkan Peninsula.

After a while descend back to the Ray Lodge and place your tent near the outdoor fire pit, or apoint yourself a comfortable bunkbed inside.

After a few revitilazing hours of sleep, the desire to resume your hike awakens you. Leaving the lush hills behind, the meanwhile rocky trail shoots up the mountainside, eased by metal cabels. Beyond the last curve the bouldering rocks vanish and you gaze upon yours truly, the Botev Peak. She almost seems close enough to touch, but in reality it will take you another 2 hours to set foot on the top.

While ascending the gradually rising trail, the Balkan’s diverse wildlife comes into action: ‘wild’ horses with waving manes graze next to playful chamois goats, dancing from rock to rock, while enormous eagles circle the grounds for prey.

Reaching the top, the area widens into a high level plain where you can wander to your heart’s content, revealing sweeping views of the surrounding mountain ranges. Apart from the weather station and radio tower, there is one tiny café to be found, kept open by a lovely man who stays here winter and summer. Enjoy the amazing views and gather your strength before descending back down on the other side of the mountain, where a gorgeous canyon is revealed.

Despite the unclear signs the gently declining path speaks for itself, making it possible to take in the beauty of it all. Once arrived where you started, look back one more time. In the many years to come you’ll always remember this as an extraordinary hike.